The West Bank
We passed into the West Bank, finding our way through a crack in the wall, which is an almost entirely unbroken barrier between Bethlehem and the Jewish settlements and Jerusalem. Right outside our hotel in Bethlehem is the huge concrete wall covered with graffittti and wall art. Check points with long waits at the few passes in the wall make travel and movement very difficult for Palestinians. One man angrily told the story of the death of his father from heart failure due to not reaching the hospital in time because of a long delay at the checkpoints.
Meeting and listening to Palestinians here has touched places in the soul. We have met men of great heart, gentle manner, impeccable manners, and deep passion for their people. We also see huge cause for frustration and know there have been outbreaks of violence.
Nafiz Rifai s is a handsome, well built man of 50 with a full head of hair, a great sense of humor, and a face that reveals great strength. He is a lover of learning, is widely read, and has written 8 novels. He has an MA in rural development and works for the Palestinian Authority. He spoke about bringing training to the Palestinians working with Don Beck and Spiral Dynamics. It is work aimed at developing the full capacity of human beings, especially needed at this time in the world. He brought 700 Palestinians together for a workshop to be exposed to this work and to learn how to use minds instead of emotions to plan the development of Palestine, quite an achievement given the difficulties of travel.
He is a peace loving man. Of suicide bombing he said,” Tell them instead: Yes, we are not going to die, but we are going to extract death from our land” He was insightful and deeply visionary, keeping his sights set on the future.
He spoke of his past, telling stories of his time in prison and how the prison experience influences the Palestinian mentality. Out of 2 and a half million Palestinians in Gaza and the West Bank and another 200,000 inside Israel, 800,000 have been in jail for political reasons. The prisoners changed the prisons into Universities and places of learning, all the books forbidden by Israel can be found there. The prisoners released from jails spread a culture. There are about 12,000 in jail now and a rotating population keeps the number about the same. He shrugs off his experience. In committing to the future, he is also committing to forgiving the past.
Suleiman al Hamri, the Palestinian co-founder of Combatants for peace. He has a BA in psychology and social work and an MA in American studies. He is 44 now. When he was a teen in the 80’s he took part in the resistance, this was an honor, to fight for his people was considered brave and honorable. He threw stones and organized demonstrations and then was arrested. The year and half that he spent in jail for the first time was the worst period of his life. It was very severe punishment for a not very big crime. He spent three years in jail from six arrests. He studied extensively in jail and devoted himself to learning.
He told us his whole life story and it was about transformation. From a youth, coming from a family of resistance fighters, acting out in frustration, to a man who went through so much pain and loss but became committed to peace and knowledge. He renounced violence and spoke out against it. He began to meet with Israelis and discovered there were good people on the other side. Eventually, after deep soul searching, he met with former Israeli soldiers and refuseniks and founded a joint Israeli /Palestinian organization.
In 2006, Combatants for Peace hosted a gathering of 600 people in support of peace- a great day! Bereaved families and former fighters from both sides stood side by side for peace. He has since spoken all over the world on delegations to Europe and the USA. As a Palestinian he has been detained in the U S. He supports a 2 state solution to the conflict. After so much blood shed on both sides, a separation is needed. He really emphasized the role that the USA must play in the peace process and urged us to get involved in the political process. His family has suffered tremendously for the Palestinian cause and he is dedicating his life to the peace process. He said that the destiny of the Palestinian and Israeli people is tied together; they will live together or die together on this land. He had so much appreciation for our visit.
Suileiman is an amazing man, so gentle and so eloquent. It is impossible to listen to him and not feel reassured and at peace. One of our number told him it was like being with the founders of our nation back in time, the beginning of a nation, dedicated to a struggle for freedom and committed to the highest ideals. He is a leader and a man of great sincerity and great depth. His eyes are so warm and so loving. Google for his website- Combatants for Peace.
We visited a Palestinian refugee camp outside Bethlehem and were greeted with the warmest hospitality. Achmed, the director of services, met with us and shared his story. It was amazing, another man of peace who has been a prisoner off and on for a good part of his life. He remains committed to his people and did not express bitterness or anger. He spoke with love, passion, and vision about what he wanted to accomplish at the camp, also about the misery of life there. He feels that the world is guilty towards the Palestinian people and that the mistakes need to be corrected. He also feels that the image of Palestinians needs to change. That cannot continue to be seen as just terrorists but must be recognized as a people who want to live in peace. They are looking for dignity and for the rights enjoyed by other people in the world.
The camp was crowed place, a square kilometer filled with 9000 people living in poverty. There hospitality was great and their appreciation at having visitors immense. They feel invisible and neglected. They are disempowered in so many ways, living as an oppressed people. However, they have great spirit and a dedication to family and to education. We visited in a home where the parents had ten children and they were all educated, the older ones having completed university or graduate degrees. They were full of smiles and pleasure at the grandchildren. They hosted us so sweetly but shared that life in the camp was hard, not comfortable. Its pretty miserable with no meds, little health care, limited services and restricted movement. Still, the children are smiling and everyone is so glad to see us. There are frequent skirmishes with the Israeli army- stone throwing and tear gas and rubber bullets. Two watchtowers are right outside the borders. There is only one entrance, the other having been blocked off, and the Israelis can close the gate at any time.
When we went to leave, heading for our next meeting, the gate was closed and armed soldiers prevented us form leaving in our bus. We explained that we were American and eventually they opened the gate for us but it gave us a taste of what it would mean to be at the mercy of a greater force who could choose to inconvenience you or humiliate you just to punish you and to keep you oppressed.
The other side of that story is the fear of the Israeli soldiers that stone throwing can escalate. There is so much fear, so much hatred, so much history of violence. At the same time there are brilliant , open hearted people who have transcended their own experience and have come to a place of commitment to peace and forgiveness, a willingness to hear and see “the other.” Our work, as we travel in this delegation of compassionate listeners, do-gooders on a bus- is to listen and support and offer some attention to those voices that are longing to be heard. It is hard work. There is a lot of pain in this land. The inspiration comes form seeing those who face huge challenges and continue on with love and passion to work for a better future. Also one hopes, that by listening to anger and the underlying fears, they can be transformed. This act of listening is a blessing to both listener and those who are heard.